Where mountains rise, the earth whispers its ancient tale…
Iran, an ancient country rich in history and culture, is home to the majestic Zagros Mountains, a range that stretches over 1,500 kilometers from the northwest to the southeast of the country which is itself home to nomadic, agro-pastoral communities whose presence in these mountains and their persistence in preservation of the authentic, nomadic lifestyle and existence in harmony with nature is a feather in cap for any Iranian who knows the true value of cultural heritage.
In IRANomad, a start-up social business that operates nomadic tours in Iran (especially Kooch or biannual transhumance), we take a particular interest in the Zagros mountains and its lovely, hospitable indigenous people; how they interact with nature and each other, as well as their unique, local wisdom as a result of these interactions.
This article will take you on a journey through the history of the Zagros Mountains, their significance, and the unique lifestyle of the nomadic people, particularly the Bakhtiari tribe, who have lived in harmony with this rugged landscape for centuries.
Mountains are vital for the planet’s ecological balance. They act as water towers, supplying fresh water to millions of people. The Zagros Mountains, with their numerous rivers and streams, are essential for the agricultural activities in the region. They also play a critical role in regulating the climate and preserving biodiversity. Mountains have always held a special place in human culture and spirituality. They are often seen as sacred and are associated with myths and legends. In Iran, the Zagros Mountains are intertwined with the cultural identity of the people. They inspire poetry, music, and art, reflecting the deep connection between the mountains and the local communities.
The Zagros mountain range has been known by various names throughout history. In Sumerian mythology, it was called Kor or Kur, referring to mountains. This name, Kor, is also associated with the Akkadian Empire, dating back around three thousand years. In Ancient Avestan, the range was known as Esproch or Esproz, with some suggesting the name Zagros is derived from the Avestan language. In Avestan, Zager Za-G’R’ translates to “big mountain.” Another theory proposes that the name originates from the Indo-European Sagartians, who lived in the area.
In ancient Persian, the range was called “Pataq,” which is also the name of a notable mountain range in Kermanshah. The term “Zagros” was introduced into the Persian language during the late Qajar period through the translation of European works, often adopting the Greek suffix ‘os.’ This term first appeared in Persian literature in Hassan Pirnia’s book “History of Iran from the Beginning to the Demise of the Sasanians,” where he noted that Europeans referred to it as Zagros. Historical sources indicate that the name Zagros was used not only for the mountain range but also specifically for the western mountains of Iran, particularly the Bakhtiari region, as mentioned by Mohammad Qazvini.
In the Grand Larousse encyclopédique, Zagros is briefly described as an oil-rich valley. According to the Greek-German dictionary published in Leipzig in 1886, the term Zagrio or Zagros, cited from Strabo and Polybius, refers to a mountain from the Median era. The Lexique géographique identifies Zagros as a mountain range in Asia extending from the northwest to the southeast. French archaeologist Romain Gershman suggested that Zagros might have originally been a tribal name, writing that “the general movement of Iranian tribes was still ongoing when a third significant tribe called ‘Zikirtu’ or ‘Sagarti’ moved eastward and settled.” He also listed other tribes such as the Dayans, Amardi, Dropikeas, and Sagarti. Diakonov, in his history of the Medes, mentions the Assyrian attack on Parsova and, based on inscriptions, notes that the final point of the campaign was Zakroti. From these sources, it is inferred that the word Zagros originates from the Avestan language and was adapted into Greek with an added ‘S’ at the end. Beyond being a name for the mountain range, Zagros has also been used to refer to a fort, a tribe, and various places
The Zagros Mountains, part of the Alpine-Himalayan orogenic belt, formed around 200 million years ago during the Mesozoic era. These mountains are a result of the collision between the Arabian and Eurasian tectonic plates, which led to the uplift of the sedimentary layers deposited by the ancient Tethys Ocean. The geological processes that shaped the Zagros are still active today, making the region seismically active and constantly evolving.
The Zagros mountain range is divided into two main parts: the Higher (or Elevated) Zagros and the Folded Zagros. The Higher Zagros, located in the northern part of the range, contains the highest peaks such as OshtoranKooh, ZardKooh, and Dana, which remain snow-covered for most of the year. This region is narrower (approximately 80 kilometers wide) but is considered the core section of the Zagros due to its height. The Folded Zagros, encompassing the western and southern parts, is broader (about 250 kilometers wide) and covers a larger land area.
Additionally, the Zagros is sometimes divided into North, Middle, and South sections. The northern part shows greater iron content differences, while the southern part displays more pronounced folds. Central Zagros is predominantly mountainous, with elevations ranging from 830 to 4416 meters above sea level, and an average height of 2332 meters. About 34 percent of the range lies at altitudes between 2100 and 2400 meters, while less than 1 percent is below 1000 meters. This region supports the livelihood of approximately 10% of the country’s population. Furthermore, over half of the nation’s nomadic population depends on the Zagros region, making it a crucial area for nomadic life.
Throughout history, the Zagros Mountains have played a crucial role in the development of civilizations in Iran. The natural barriers provided by these mountains have served as protection against invasions and have fostered the growth of distinct cultures and communities. The Elamites, one of the earliest civilizations in Iran, thrived in the southwestern foothills of the Zagros. Later, the Achaemenid Empire, with its capital at Persepolis, relied on the Zagros for defence and resources.
The Zagros Mountains are a biodiversity hotspot, home to numerous endemic species of plants and animals. The unique climate and varied topography create diverse habitats, supporting a wide range of flora and fauna. This biodiversity is not only crucial for the ecosystem but also offers opportunities for scientific research and ecotourism.
The forests of the Zagros mountain range date back approximately 5500 years. The predominant tree species in these forests is the oak. The Zagros forests are generally divided into two sections: North Zagros and South Zagros. The vegetation in the western areas consists of cold-climate plants, while the eastern areas host tropical plants. Most of the Zagros forest vegetation consists of oak trees. At altitudes above the forest border (around 2300 meters), dense grasslands and bushes can be found. The Dena Protected Area is a notable example of the forest habitat in the Zagros. Spanning 11 provinces and covering an area of 6 million hectares, Zagros forests constitute 40% of Iran’s forests, with about 70% of the species being oak. The region experiences a semi-arid Mediterranean climate with cold winters. Other tree species in these forests include Fara, Kikam, Bene, Sparrow’s Tongue, Wild
Pear, Velik, and Purple. Oak communities typically thrive at altitudes between 650 and 2400 meters above sea level. Juniper communities are found above this altitude, while almond communities are found below. The dominant forestry form is branched forests, indicating significant human impact over time.
The Zagros Mountains are home to a variety of wild spices and grapevines. Given that wild grapes grow in the region, it is notable that the northern Zagros contains some of the oldest known sites of viniculture. The oldest of these sites is Hajji Firuz Tepe, which provides evidence of winemaking dating back at least 7000 years. Archaeologists discovered six nine-liter wine jars at this site, dating them to between 5000 and 5400 BCE.
The Zagros Mountains are renowned for their striking geological formations. From towering limestone peaks to deep canyons and valleys, the landscape is a testament to the dynamic geological processes that have shaped it.
One of the most prominent features of the Zagros Mountains is their towering limestone peaks. These peaks, formed primarily from sedimentary rocks, are the result of complex tectonic activities. The collision of the Arabian and Eurasian tectonic plates has caused the land to buckle and fold, creating the impressive mountainous terrain we see today. The highest peaks, such as Oshtoran Kooh, Zardkooh, and Dana, are often snow-capped, providing a stark contrast to the arid regions below and contributing to the mountains’ dramatic scenery
In addition to its peaks, the Zagros region is home to numerous deep canyons and valleys. These features have been carved out by the relentless forces of erosion, primarily by water. Rivers and streams have cut through the rock, creating steep-walled canyons and fertile valleys that provide vital habitats for various plant and animal species. The valleys, with their lush vegetation, stand in contrast to the rugged, rocky terrain of the surrounding mountains, showcasing the diversity of the Zagros landscape. The presence of numerous caves, such as the Ali Sadr Cave, adds to the geological intrigue of the region.
The Zagros Mountains are not just a natural wonder but also a repository of cultural heritage. Ancient rock carvings, historic sites, and traditional villages dot the landscape, offering a glimpse into the rich history and culture of the region. The nomadic tribes, particularly the Bakhtiari, add to the cultural tapestry with their unique way of life.
The Bakhtiari tribe is one of the most prominent nomadic groups in Iran, with a history that dates back thousands of years. Originating from the Zagros Mountains, the Bakhtiari have maintained their traditional lifestyle, herding livestock and migrating seasonally between the highlands and lowlands. Their resilience and adaptability have allowed them to thrive in the challenging environment of the Zagros.
The Bakhtiari nomads follow a unique migratory pattern, known as “Kooch,” which involves moving their herds to the lush summer pastures in the highlands and returning to the milder lowlands in winter. This lifestyle is deeply connected to the natural rhythms of the Zagros Mountains, ensuring sustainable use of the resources. The annual migration is a spectacular sight, showcasing the harmony between humans and nature.
The Bakhtiari people have a rich cultural heritage, expressed through their music, dance, and storytelling. Traditional Bakhtiari music, with its distinctive melodies and instruments, reflects the beauty and challenges of nomadic life. The tribe’s folklore and oral history preserve the wisdom and experiences of generations, offering insights into their worldview and values.
The Zagros Mountains offer a wide range of outdoor activities for adventure enthusiasts. From hiking and trekking to wildlife watching and caving, the region provides ample opportunities to explore its natural beauty. Ecotourism initiatives are gaining momentum, promoting sustainable travel practices that benefit local communities and protect the environment.
The pristine environment of the Zagros Mountains, with its clean air and natural springs, offers a perfect setting for relaxation and rejuvenation. The therapeutic properties of the mineral-rich waters and the tranquil atmosphere make it an ideal destination for health and wellness retreats.
The best time to visit the Zagros Mountains is during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to November) when the weather is mild and the landscape is at its most vibrant. Summer can be hot in the lowlands, while winter brings cold and snow to the highlands.
But whenever you wish to visit this most majestic of mountains, at any time or season of the year, the Zagros mountain will show you a unique face of itself, a glimpse into its many seasonal beauties that will create a core memory of “the sublime” in your mind’s eye. Whether in the highlands or the lowlands, with or without the nomads, in hot or cold weather, Zagros is always a spot where one truly connects with the bigger picture in life. Where one develops a sense of awe and reverence for the roots of civilization and for what truly matters in life.