Nomads’ Odyssey (Kooch)

After 3 weeks in Iran, I felt I wanted to share something “else” of this amazing country. I had heard (a bit) about the Zagros mountains and only knew it as a large chain of mountains.
Besides, I am very interested in nomadic life, by the ways in which nomadic people manage to adapt to multiple changes, the skills they have which we have a lot to learn from. And the challenge they represent to sedentary lives. I was really keen on sharing a few days of their life.
The trip we made has been further any expectations : as I did not have so many, except “take what is happening” and “get in a journey mood” !

The whole thing is about “catching” a nomadic family on their yearly transhumance and sharing a few days with them, impacting as little as possible their usual organisation.
It requires flexibility and understanding that these people are not there to organise a trip for you, but are friendly enough to let you accompany them to share a piece of a long and demanding journey for some of them..
For the “temporary nomads” we have been the main goal is to share in the least intrusive way possible, the journey of a large herd and its owners (“the family”) through beautiful mountains, passes, narrow tracks, shortcuts trails .
It requires a bit of fitness and a great willingness to face the “unexpected” : no fixed schedule, stops, timetables, menus, etc.
The rythm of the family and herd decides it – and that is great !

I did a 7 days trip :
– one day to discover Shushtar and Chogha Zanbil
– one day to join the “family” – with beautiful Zagros sceneries, and for our tiny group (2) a first challenge as the planned family had left without us, so a new ride to join another one – and new great scenaries of this mountains covered with oak trees and wild pistachios trees.
– three days of hiking along the family, with no dirt roads on the way, just trails, passes, springs and rivers to follow.
– one day to visit a sedentary nomadic village and manage our way out of the mountains through dust roads
– one half day in Buin va Miandasht, to discover the reality of “georgian villages”

This whole trip has proved a truly amazing “off the beaten track” experience, all tailored, managed, accompanied in a very nice manner by the great team of Nomad Tours.
Mohamad, Sarah, Davood, Soroosh have been great to be with in the mountains : cheerful, energetic, caring, reliable and open about the challenges encountered.
They have a strong commitment to find the “good match” between the needs of “temporary nomads” and the time necessary for them to adjust to new frame of mind (no fixed plans, quick “decision changes”) and the reality of this nomadic families who have a hard journey to take.
I always felt at ease and secure to ask all the questions I had, and they were great in their “go between” role with the family.
Our guide in Chogha Zanbil, Saddeq was really nice and easy going, adjusting to our mooods !
I really appreciated the deeply respectful approach to the whole thing, the way Nomad Tours intends to contribute in a positive and non damaging way to the sustainability of nomadic life, the way they explain things and allows each participant to understrand his/her responsability in taking part in a specific type of trip.
That encounter with this bakhtiari nomadic life, in these conditions, is really an amazing thing to be able to share. And I feel grateful and privilegied to have been able to share that.

Me and my friend Paul had the chance to participate in a nomad migration with the help from the amazing nomad tours team. We had a really spontaneous request but still they found a way to manage everything. They picked us up and from the beginning it was not a typical payed touristic tour it felt like going to an adventure with friends. The tour itself is simply amazing because you will have the chance to take part in the life of migrating (not settled!) Bakthiari nomads which is really special. You follow the animals, experience unbelievable beautiful nature in the Zagros Mountains and you can observe and take part in their daily lifestyle. Making bread, yogurt, milking the goats, getting water and firewood and sleep under the stars. I really appreciate also the way the tour is organized because the family don’t get intefluenced in their traditional lifestyle during the tour. We are vegetarian and also this was no problem ! Our guide Mohammed (who is an excellent off the beaten track driver :D) even showed us the unique village of Sar-Agha-Seyed and cared for our special wishes, we even could watch woman weaving amazing carpets and making handicrafts. Also he has excellent knowledge about the nomads and the mountains ,I hope we can go again on kooch and see the very valuable tradition of the Bakhtiari nomads! Thank you Nike and Paul from Germany

As an Iranian girl with Bakhtiari roots, I had this idea that the trip would have little surprises for me, but I was totally wrong. This trip was completely a different, authentic and magical experience. Spending days with the most honest, original and hospitable people I have ever met in my life really changed my attitude toward them, their lifestyle and the way we are all connected to nature. It was also an opportunity for me to face my boundaries and limiting beliefs. In addition, a break from the hustle and bustle of the city and spending days between beautiful mountains of Zagros, where the pace of life is really slow, was an unforgettable memory for me. The night I spent with nomads under the clear sky is one of the most memorable nights of my life. I woke up with the beautiful sounds of bells and I felt as “clear as the air and as young as the morning”! I would totally recommend this tour to all people who are seeking new experiences and adventures.

Last week me and few other friends traveled to hinterlands of Zagros mountain range where we joined a nomadic family of Bakhtiyari tribe on their epic migration (the ‘kuch’). They are one of the last-standing nomads that still exist in the world, and as much we were excited – they were eager to meet us as well!
Although first time in Iran, thanks to some lovely Iranian friends, I was privileged to visit the “forgotten people” and have a rather unique experience. For five days we shared the whole experience with a very hospital nomadic family. In the morning we were woken up by the song of hundreds of bells, we eat the fresh made bread, drank the purest doogh, hiked through some amazing slopes and valleys of Zagros mountains, crossed the cold Bozoft river, rest beside the camp fire and slept under the clear skies next to the nomads – until the last day, when the family went deeper into the wild.
At first there’s nothing but man, animal, and a vast untamed Nature – but at the other hand, there’s much more to the picture that meets the eye. By going way back, I found myself immersed in a very different world, yet a world with which I was able to relate on a very intimate level. After returning back from this, sort of, pilgrimage, I feel like I am on a much better place.
Traveling souls would found themselves very much at home with the nomads and their herds, so if you are for some “time-traveling” I think you should not miss this chance.
I was pretty lucky when I found out about his dedicated eco-tourism agency from Teheran, who offers amazing Persia Authentic Nomad Tours. They appreciate and try to preserve this intangible heritage and are quality oriented, with a strong vision of a long-term and socially responsible enterprise. They are very professional and were more than happy to facilitate our desire to try out something different, and to take us on this unique adventure.
My sincere recommendations!